PerSe Uni del Bonnesant 2018


Robert Parker
99 point

The pure Malbec 2018 Uní del Bonnesant was produced with the grapes from 312 vines planted in gobelet on 0.06 hectares in 2013 on the edge of a slope, where the southeast exposure makes it cooler and where the soil is poorer with more limestone content than in the rest of the vineyard. These are the first grapes to be picked, before those for Iubileus and La Craie. The gently destemmed grapes are gently fermented in an open-top barrel with indigenous yeasts for 45 days, and the wine matured in neutral barrels until bottling. As the soil is poor, the wine tends to be more exuberant than what they get from the La Craie, which is very balanced. It has an explosive nose with notes of raspberries and violets, even white flowers, but deep down the wine is very mineral with a stony feeling to it. The texture is more ethereal than that of La Craie, and there is a lot more freshness here than in the previous bottling. In fact, once again, I find citrus freshness reminiscent of blood oranges, like I found in the Inseparable. To think that this has an amazingly low pH of 3.45. This feels different and transparent, with austerity on the palate and good symmetry and depth. Unfortunately, only 291 bottles were produced. Bottled in December 2019. The good news is that with the new plantings, there will be a handful more bottles of it in the next few years. But we'll have to wait until the 2023, 2024...

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