Complex Traditional Method

What happens when bottle-fermented wine is left alone for years. Extended time on the lees breaks the yeast down and rebuilds the wine as something else entirely: brioche, toasted hazelnut, baked apple, honey and, in the oldest examples, mushroom and truffle. The bubble turns from foam into a fine, creamy thread. Vintage and prestige cuvée Champagne, grower bottlings from small family domaines, Franciacorta Riserva, Gran Reserva Cava and vintage English sparkling.

Serve at 10°C to 12°C, warmer than you think, and use a white wine glass rather than a flute so the aromas have somewhere to go. These are wines for the table: roast chicken, lobster, scallops, mushrooms, aged cheese. Most will keep improving in the rack for years yet.

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