Not every red needs weight to make an impression. These are the bottles that arrive on the nose first: rose petal, violet, pomegranate, wild strawberry, a twist of dried herb and orange peel. Think Gamay from the Beaujolais crus, Pinot Noir grown where the nights stay cool, Nerello Mascalese off the black sands of Etna, Frappato from Sicily, Schiava from the Alto Adige and pale, whole-bunch Cinsault and Pineau d'Aunis from growers who have no interest in extraction for its own sake.
Tannins are fine and low, acidity is bright, and the fruit is red rather than black. Serve them at 14°C or a touch below, in a decent-sized glass, alongside roast chicken, charcuterie, salmon, mushrooms or anything from the grill.