Savoury and Classic Red

ruit is only part of the story here. These are reds built on structure and savour: tobacco leaf, dried herbs, leather, iron, cedar, olive and turned earth, with tannins that mean business and a finish that goes on well after the fruit has faded. Cabernet Sauvignon from the left bank, Syrah from Cornas and Saint-Joseph, Nebbiolo from the Langhe, traditional Rioja aged patiently in cask, Sangiovese from Montalcino, Mourvèdre from Bandol and Xinomavro from Naoussa.

They ask something of you and repay it. Decant an hour ahead, serve at 17°C to 18°C, and put proper food on the table: roast lamb, aged beef, game, mushrooms, hard mountain cheeses. Many will improve for another decade in the rack if you can leave them alone.

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