Sparkling Red

The most underrated shelf in the shop. Fizzy red is a serious tradition in northern Italy and a proud one in Australia, and it solves problems no other wine can. Dry Lambrusco from Emilia, tannic and dark from Grasparossa or pale and almost floral from Sorbara, cuts through fat better than anything. Brachetto d'Acqui is low in alcohol and lightly sweet, made for chocolate and berries. Sparkling Shiraz from Australia is dark, ripe and richly fruited, and is the reason a certain kind of household serves it with Christmas dinner.

Serve genuinely chilled, 10°C to 12°C for the dry ones and colder for the sweet. Try them with charcuterie, pizza, roast pork, hard cheese and anything fried.