Dry and Full Flavoured Rose

Rosé with something behind it. Longer on the skins, deeper in colour and altogether more serious, these are wines of strawberry, blood orange, dried herbs and a savoury, faintly grippy finish. Tavel from the southern Rhône, Bandol built on Mourvèdre, Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo, rosado from Navarra and Rioja, Clairet from Bordeaux, and a number of growers who ferment in old barrels and leave the wine on its lees.

These belong at the table rather than on the lawn, and they are among the few pinks worth keeping for two or three years. Serve at 10°C to 12°C, warmer than you might expect and in a proper wine glass, alongside grilled lamb, paella, tuna, roast chicken, tagine or anything off the barbecue.