Muscat is one of the oldest grape families in the world, and one of the few that actually tastes of grapes. Its heady perfume of orange blossom, rose, apricot and honeysuckle makes it instantly recognisable, and it has been used to make sweet wines around the Mediterranean and beyond for centuries.
The styles are wonderfully varied. In the South of France, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise and Muscat de Rivesaltes are fortified early to capture the grape's fresh, floral fruit. Portugal's Moscatel de Setúbal and Spain's Moscatel from Málaga and Valencia range from bright and zesty to deeply aged, with notes of candied peel, toffee and spice. Further afield, Rutherglen in Australia produces some of the richest, most treacly fortified Muscats found anywhere, while the Italian island of Pantelleria makes intense passito wines from sun-dried grapes.
Younger, fresher Muscats are a lovely match for fruit tarts, panna cotta and blue cheese, or simply served chilled as an aperitif. The older, darker styles come into their own with Christmas pudding, dark chocolate and anything with caramel.