Aromatic and Floral White

Pour these and the room knows about it. Jasmine, elderflower, lime blossom, rose petal, lychee, white peach and a dusting of ginger or white pepper, all before you have taken a sip. Riesling from the Mosel, the Rheingau and Alsace, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris from the same slopes, Muscat in its dry guise, Torrontés from Salta, Viognier from Condrieu and the south, Furmint from Tokaj and Moschofilero from the Peloponnese.

A few carry a whisper of residual sugar, which balances the acidity rather than making them sweet, and it is what allows them to handle spice better than almost anything else. Serve at 10°C to 12°C, a little warmer than you would a crisp white, or the perfume never gets out of the glass. Excellent with Thai, Vietnamese and Sichuan food, smoked fish, roast pork and washed-rind cheese.

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