Weight without woodiness. These are whites built on ripe fruit, time on the lees and vessels that add texture rather than flavour, whether that is concrete, amphora or old neutral barrels. Expect quince, white peach, dried herbs, almond skin and a broad, waxy, mouth-filling feel, held together by a firm line of acidity. Fiano and Falanghina from Campania, Vermentino from Sardinia and the coast, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Clairette from the southern Rhône, Alsace Pinot Gris, Godello, aged Semillon from the Hunter and Chenin from the Loire and the Swartland.
These are wines to serve at the table rather than before it. Bring them out at 11°C to 13°C, in a proper glass, with roast fish, chicken with herbs, charcuterie, pumpkin and squash, tagine, or anything cooked in olive oil.