Description

Gigondas sits in the shadow of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and Grapillon d'Or has been a family estate at the foot of them for generations. Celine Chauvet now runs it, working old Grenache vines on clay and limestone with a good measure of Syrah alongside. There is no new oak here, which is exactly right for the style. The wine spends its time in large old wood and concrete so the fruit and the site do the talking rather than the barrel.

The 2023 is dark and generous without being heavy. Black cherry and crushed raspberry first, then the wild herbs and dried lavender that southern Rhone growers call garrigue, and a twist of black pepper on the finish. The tannins are ripe and grainy rather than firm, so it is already approachable, though it will fill out and soften over the next five or six years.

Made for slow cooked lamb, daube of beef, or anything with rosemary and garlic near it. Decant an hour ahead if you are opening it young.