Bold and Complex Red

Turn the volume up. These are reds of real concentration: blackcurrant, black cherry and damson piled on top of cocoa, liquorice, sweet spice and cedar from time in oak. Alcohol is generous, texture is dense and velvety, and the flavours arrive in layers rather than all at once. Cabernet and its blends from Napa, Stellenbosch and the Coonawarra, Shiraz from the Barossa and McLaren Vale, Châteauneuf-du-Pape and the wider southern Rhône, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Amarone and the best of Mendoza's high-altitude Malbec.

Not everyday drinking, and not meant to be. Decant an hour ahead, serve at 17°C in a large glass, and match the wine with the food: aged rib of beef, venison, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, oxtail, or a plate of strong hard cheese.

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